Today we took a trip out of Sofia into the mountains to see the
Rila monastery. Despite being a 90 minute drive from Sofia this is
a common day trip for tourists and Bulgarians alike due to the
influence the monastery has had on the country, a spiritual beacon
for over 1000 years. We had looked at the options of local buses
but having to make two connections and a long journey time
persuaded us to look elsewhere. The owners of our apartment offered
a shuttle service which we took up but were a little surprised when
they turned up in their home car rather than the mini bus we had
expected. Still a personal service! The monastery was founded
by Saint Ivan of Rila. Born in 876AD Ivan's parents died when he
was only 25 and already a pious and virtuous chap he concentrated
on giving away everything he had to the poor. He retreated to the
Ruen mountains to live in a secluded hut. It's commented that the
thinner he got the more spiritually rich he felt so it's a fair
guess to say that he wasn't eating too well. The sight of this odd
skinny guy hanging around made the locals nervous and they moved
him on after 6 months. Possibly deciding that living in a hut was
too easy he moved into a cave in the Rila mountains for the next 12
years. During this time it is alleged that he healed people with
all many of aliments and his fame grew throughout Bulgaria. Other
would be monks arrived and together they set up the Rila monastery.
Later in the 14th century the monastery grew such that it became
clear they had to move the site and also a desire to pick a more
defensive location given the highwaymen infesting the mountains.
The site was supposedly chosen in part because it was more
sheltered from the weather than the other options. Having stood
outside it in wind driven hail I'd hate to see the
alternatives. In terms of its location it sits high up in the
mountains at 1147m and enjoys (?) a very monastic -22 degrees C in
winter and a more pleasant 29 in the summer. During the time
of Turkish rule the monastery had a predictably hard time, being
constantly sacked by Turkish and Albanian marauders in the 18th
century but survived due to large donations from the Bulgarian
people and Russia. During this time it was seen as a vital beacon
for the Christian faith during the Turkish occupation. In addition
more recently it was clearly a seat of learning and not only of a
religious nature.
We arrived after a lengthy car journey and were dropped off at the
gate. The construction today is a large square building which is
mostly courtyard inside. This forms the dorms for the monks as well
as the kitchens and museum. Inside the courtyard is a church and a
defensive stone tower left over from the days of bandits. The
weather can only be described as crazy with sun one minute and hail
the next. First we dashed into the church to avoid the first round
of hail. Being built relatively recently the murals were much more
vibrant than others we had seen. While back home it was Easter
Sunday being Orthodox in Bulgaria it was the following week but
even so this Sunday was a special celebration and so the church was
busier than usual. Part of the celebration seemed to involve
everyone buying a bushel of a green and leafy branch which had been
on sale all over Sofia and also inside the church. The paintings on
the side of the church were especially clear and bright, depicting
the pleasures or not of hell and heaven. Back outside for a brief
period of sun we were soon herded back into the museum to hide from
the hail again. Here we saw lots of garments from the monastery, a
huge chest which used to contain the gold and required all five
keys to open it and finally a wooden cross which has been engraved
to an astonishing level of detail. So much so the carpenter had
gone blind by the time he had finished but despite this it's
tempting to say that the finished article was worth it. With most
of the sights seen we headed over to a restaurant a few feet away
from the back entrance and prepared ourselves to pay top tourist
prices for poor food. Luckily we were surprised on both fronts,
clearly the locals hadn't caught on to milking the opportunity of
limited supply and large demand.
On the drive back we stopped off at a church in the outskirts of
Sofia: Boyana church. This is a small church built in the 13th
century and from the outside seemed quite unremarkable. However, on
the inside it is covered with detailed frescoes. Tourists are only
allowed 10 minutes inside the climate controlled church and with a
10 lev entrance fee it made this the most expensive activity per
minute we would undertake for the entire holiday. On being waved
into the entrance hallway a lively intense chap started explaining
a little about the church and offered his services as a guide. It
turns out he is a professor studying the frescoes and like
professors the world over was somewhat enthusiastic. The frescoes
themselves were good but just as I was thinking that they weren't
up to the standard we had seen in Italy we learnt that they were
all painted before the Italian renaissance. Of even more
significance these were the first examples of saints being painted
with human expressions of emotion on their faces, a large departure
from the accepted norm at the time.
Feeling suitably virtuous by our heavily religious sight seeing we
set off into town, after stopping at the apartment to watch the end
of the Paris-Roubaix cycling race, for some food. After a nice
Italian restaurant had served us some much needed pasta we went to
the happy restaurant for chocolate dessert and where once again
Premier football was turned on just as we arrived - impeccable
timing again!
Day twentythree - Eastern Europe |
8Apr 2012