We had a little time before we needed to go for the train and
decided to head out for breakfast, that is until we found that
everywhere seemed to be shut until 10am for breakfast. Undeterred
we walked up to the citadel having exhausted the possibilities
below and found a hotel offering food to anyone who walked by as
well as residents. We made the most of this opportunity and then
headed back to the hotel to collect bags and walk to the train
station. Being cautious as ever we arrived with plenty of time and
sat around waiting with many locals. Due to timings we had decided
to go for the slow train which was also the locals train. As such
train 28 was much more basic than anything we had been on so far
and stopped frequently. It seems that walking on tracks isn't so
much of a no no as it would be back home, some of the stations
didn't really even have platforms and people to jumped on and off
when the train came to a stop.
With three hours we had some time to watch the world go by and in
general it needed some repair work and a lick of paint. But as we
got closer to Brasov there were more signs of built up areas and on
arrival we were surprised with the modern feel of the city. Perhaps
the contrast should not have been so hard to predict given that
Brasov is ten times bigger than Sighisoara. The train station was
actually off the map of our guide but we had taken some screen
shots of maps on Eleanor's phone and hesitantly navigated our way
to the hotel. This turned out to be a nice place with some
curiosities. A very small duvet, more like a single, on a double
bed, see through curtains (to entertain the neighbours?!) and an
odd reluctance to serve us breakfast the next day despite the fact
that they would be paid to do so.
After dropping our bags we managed to get a taxis to the center of
town. Brasov itself seems to be segregated into a lovely old town,
surrounded by the old city wall, and the more modern and functional
area. Brasov is considered to be the first stop for tourists in the
country and we immediately saw more than in Sighisoara. We stopped
by the Black Church, which is the largest Gothic church between
Vienna and Istanbul, but it had just shut before we arrived. The
weather was windy but at least dry and so we headed to the cable
car up Mount Tampa. This ridge overlooks Brasov by some 500 metres
and is in fact where the towns original defences were until Vlad
the Impaler attacked it in 1458 and subsequently dismantled it and
then in an effort to keep up his reputation impaled 40 merchants at
the top. For us it was a less terminal journey to the top. On the
way there, after some appropriate hunting, we found what is claimed
to be the narrowest street in Europe at a little over a metre wide,
although alleyway would be a more accurate description.
At the top of the ridge we walked along to the very peak for the
best views, just above the Hollywood style 'BRASOV' sign. The wind
was terrific but thanks to a concrete buttress largely just above
our heads but we could see it blowing in bad weather so there was
little time to dawdle. The view looking down onto the town laid it
out like a map. We could see further up the valley and spotted a
grey smear up the hill side. At first I thought this was a
landslide but on closer inspection with the camera it turned out to
be an extended graveyard. From this vantage point we could clearly
see the old town and where the city walls once were as well as the
two defensive towers on the opposite hill. With snaps taken and a
chill in the air we jumped on the cable car down back into town,
some food and then back to the hotel.
Day thirteen - Eastern Europe |
29Mar 2012