The levels of sleep overnight were definitely variable. The boat
hummed to the sound of the engine in all cabins but having sampled
both below and above deck we were pleased to be top side. The
general mode of operation was to take a dingy and land on various
islands for sight seeing, get back to the boat and move onto the
next landing site and so on. The advantages of being on a small
boat really came home to us when we watched two dingys doing
shuttle runs for over forty people and the logistics of managing
bags and passengers. When landing there was sometimes a jetty to
make it a dignified affair but often it was a 'wet' landing,
jumping out into the shallow water and wading to the beach. For the
feeling of frontier expedition I much preferred the latter. This
morning we first landed on Rábida island which had a lovely red
beach and a total area of a little under 5 square kilometres. Our
guide had advised that no footwear was required as we were landing
on a beach but as we landed I noticed that he was wearing trainers,
which came in handy when we walked to the end of the beach and the
sand gave way to sharp volcanic rock! Making a mental note to not
fall for that again we looked around to see an American Oyster
catcher enjoying a morning meal of crabs and also the crabs wisely
scurrying into holes at the first sign of movement. Further along
the beach we caught our first sight of blue footed boobies, but
sadly they weer nesting in the cliffs above our heads so we
couldn't get a good look at the feet which gives them their name.
While painfully hopping back across the rocks a baby sea lion which
was soon joined by its mother. This cute pair posed for photos for
some time but eventually we had all got all the shots we needed so
we retreated up to our original landing point our first taste of
snorkeling. There was little coral but plenty of fish to spot and a
chance to try out the underwater camera. Soon we were back on the
boat having lunch and looking the plan for the day (employers take
note) we were pleased to see that the hectic schedule had booked us
in for an early afternoon snooze while the boat motored around to
the next landing spot.
Our next stop was James Island (or Santiago Island) with another
wet landing. This island is the site of a forlorn building, the
remains of an investor who borrow heavily to set up a salt mining
company here only to realise too late that the island itself has no
fresh water and that the elements were harder on the equipment than
expected. After only two months him and his family including his
six year old child were in jail for falling to pay debts - harsh
times indeed! It was very hot when we landed so we opted to snorkel
first . The water was lovely and warm and we all slowly meandered
around looking at the abundant fishes, once out of the water the
red crabs covering the rocky shore line at one end of the beach
held our attention. All too soon it was time to walk inland to the
other side of the island. On this rocky beach there were hundreds
of Iguanas, those hiding in the shade against rocks were hard to
see but some were sitting in the sun waiting for the photographers
to pay them some attention it seemed. Walking along a rocky plateau
we were hopping over rock pools and scaring crabs. The sun was
still fierce but our guide told us that our timing was good, the
last few days had seen rain so we felt we had the better end of the
bargain.
After food and a beer eye lids started to droop Eleanor and I soon
headed off to bed. On the way we saw David sat on the sun loungers
on the upper deck admiring the night sky which despite the bright
moon was still magnificent. Chatting to David a bit more revealed
that he has a hot tub in his back garden, something which made
Eleanor's eye shine with jealously. Mind you hearing that David had
dropped a canoe on his foot just prior to coming on holiday turned
the shine to water.
Day five - South America |
12Apr 2011